Bolivia---part 3

So---our adventures in Bolivia continue!!! From Potossi we went to Sucre--- the financial Capital of Bolivia---a large, but really pretty town. Sucre is also a Colonial style town (and also an obviously wealthy town!!!) with amazing beautiful and huge buildings. Walking around, we felt like ants next to some of these buildings!!!

But although, like Tarija, it was quite obvious that Sucre had a fairly wealthy population---it was not quite as "sterile" as Tarija, and there was not the "segregation" of Indigenous and non-indigenous---the central market was in the town centre and hence it had a mix of cultures, which made it colourful and interesting.

Many of the old doors had beautiful old-fashioned door-knobs---from fancy ones to really simple designs. We had fun with a little door-knob-photos project---here are just a couple of the photos!!!

One thing we really loved about Bolivia (one of the many things!!!) was the incredibly beautiful textiles that are produced here---and the majority still hand-woven, with each region having its own unique style. Unfortunately in Peru and Ecuador, the majority of the textiles are machine-produced (for tourism!!!)---and whilst they are still beautiful and colourful---those from Bolivia are more special. As they are hand-woven, each one is like a work of art---and can take from weeks to months to complete, depending on size.

In sucre, there was the most incredibly beautiful textile museum. This region is particularly well known for its hand-woven textiles, with each community having its own unique and distinct style; intricate designs in reds/oranges or blues/greens from the Tarabuco region, weavings

in 2 colours, red/black or black/white from the Potolo region and really beautiful colouful weavings done by the men. The museum was set up with different rooms displaying the cultures and weavings and history of the varying reagions.

There was also a couple of women (one from Tarabuco and one from Potolo) actually working on a weaving---which was amazing to watch. the designs are so intricate and its incredible to see how they are created with these fine threads row by row!!! I befriended the girl from Tarabuco, and asked if i could take her photo---she was fascinated to see her photos!!! (I made copies to take to het the next day!!!). She was only 18 years old---and in reality, the work she was creating was incredible for her age.

We spent a couple of nights in Sucre---and as we loved the weavings produced here, decided to visit some of the surrounding towns where they are produced.

The first town we visited was Tarabuco. This is a cute little town about 2 hours from Sucre, which is popular for its colourful local market every sunday. ( We love a local market---in case you hadn´t already guessed!!!). We decided to go on the Saturday and spend the night there---just to enjoy and experience the town a bit more. We finally found a little hostel to stay---basic, no shower---but a bed to sleep in!!!

We then spent the afternoon wandering around, weaving our way through the little cobblestone streets, seeing how the Tarabucans live, chatting with some local kids and convincing them to let us take their photos (they are actually fascinated to see themselves on the camera screen!!!), went to a mirador overlooking the town below and visited the old abandoned train station, which would have been a hive of activity in its day!!! It many deserted and delapidated rooms and windows made for some cute photos!!!

We then wandered with these little kids in the surrounding countryside, and eventually watched a beautiful sunset over the town.

Back in town---we ended up with the locals at a little street market eating the yummiest soup we have ever eaten---not sure what it was---but it was really yummy!!! Afterwards, we went looking for somewhere to have a drink, and as ther was no cafes, we ended up in a little local store sitting on stools and enjoying a drink with the locals---one old guy dressed in the typical clothes of Tarabuca; white pants, a black poncho (which they sometimes wear over the more traditional red/black/brown/orange striped poncho)and a black hard helmet-like hat. After that---time for bed!!! Not much else to do in these little towns!!!

The next day---market day---we just love these colourful local markets. The whole town was filled with a mix of locals selling anything from clothes to household goods to animals to food and traditional weavings and ponchos and artesanias for us tourists!!! Plus, the locals walking around in their traditional clothes---so colourful---and great for paparazying!!! We spent the day wandering around, enjoying the colour and culture of Tarabuco and eating a yummy home-cooked meal in the local market hall. There was soooo many people begging for us to buy from them---it was hard to decide. The locals have these dark brown, haunting eyes. One old lady begging for me to buy something from her---her eyes just looked straight in to my soul---it was hard to say no!!! As i said---we took lots (actually more than lots!!!) of photos---here i am sharing some of them with you before continuing with our Bolivia adventures. Enjoy...the colours, culture and faces of Tarabuco...

We even bought a couple of their weavings for our "textile collection"---and Jesus bought himself one of their traditional ponchos.

Our next adventure was a 2 day hike in the surrounds of Sucre---to visit some of the villages where the local weavings were done. As usual, the lady in the tour office "lied" to us---she told us we were a group of 3 (plus guide) and that we would walk to some rock-paintings, visit a village where the textiles were produced and also to see some fossilized dinosaur foot-prints. She basically had no idea---just wanted to sell a tour!!!

Our "group" was Jesus and me---and our guide Pablo!!! Which in the end wasn´t such a bad thing!!! We were taken by taxi to our starting point---where our hike began walking down an old Inca path---with amazing views of the valley below, gorgeous red-coloured rocks, the surrounding mountains and pretty wild-flowers.

I was a bit suspicious of our "plan"---as i thought that it didn´t include this Inca path. When Pablo said that we probably wouldn´t have time to get to the dinosaur foot-prints, i asked (kind of suspecting the answer!!!) if we were going to the rock-paintings. "No---they are over the other side of the mountains" he said. So---great---basically the hike was going to be nothing like what we were "sold"!!! Welcome to Latin America!!! He quickly added---realising that what we had been told was nothing like what we were doing---that if we walked quickly, we could get to the foot-prints. For us, that was more interesting to see than the rock-paintings---so "OK" we said---as the "group was just us, we could walk at the pace we wanted. So---off we marched!!!

The hike was beautiful---down a river valley, with incredible mineral colours/formations in the valley walls---like paintings---just beautiful. We got to stop here for a "quick" lunch break to rest our feet for a moment and to enjoy the pretty surroundings.

One area was full of sea shell fossils in the rocks, and then the hike took us down the valley, climbing up over the mountain pass to the other side with amazing mountain views. We hiked past beautiful waterfalls, past houses in small villages where we could see the weaving looms sitting outside in the back yards!!!

We got to stop and rest a few minutes at a "cave" called "Garganta del Diablo" (Devils Throat)---as it resembled a Devils Throat---well, a throat anyway!!! From inside there was great views over the valley and waterfall below. But---time to hike on---!!!

We finally arrived in our destination town of Maragua at about 4.00. Maragua is a small town set in the middle of a volcanic crater---with the surrounding mountains "striped" with curved line formations coloured with the minerals. Maragua has no road connections---to get to Sucre for any supplied needed the people need to walk 2-3 hours to get a truck or bus. The town also has no electricity---the cables had just been installed, but no connection had yet been made. Its amazing to imagine that in 2009 people are still living so basically!!!

We stopped at the house of some friends of Pablo---left our back-packs and he gave the lady some food to prepare our dinner---and told the lady we would be back at 7pm. And so---off we went again---our destination---the dinosaur foot-prints.

We hiked to the top of a rise ---leaving Maragua behind in the crater below---beautiful scenery---but no time for stopping!!! We were hiking a lot over this soft sandy ground, really volcanic in colour---purple, grey, white, red. I was hiking the whole time behind Pablo and Jesus, camera in hand, taking photos. They marched on ahead---meanwhile i was getting left behind as i stopped to play paparazzi---then i would have to run/walk quickly to catch up!!! But---good exercise and plus i have some great photos to show for it!!!

Up and down over the hills, through other little villages, and finally we arrived at the Dinosaur foot-prints---which were fossilised in the middle of nowhere, in a flat area of stone (which would obviously have been mud at the time). The prints were really clear and distinct---some large ones of a "Tiranosaurus Rex" and a long row of smaller ones from one side to the other of a "Long Tail"---you could just imagine these huge creatures running across this area millions of years ago. How amazing---to see for the first time ever real dinosaur footprints!!!

But--by this stage, it was starting to get dark---so time to head back to Maragua. Wow---how tiring!!! But we had to hurry on. On the way back, the weather changed---the wind really picked up and we were caught in this dust storm. The wind was a bit scary---it nearly blew us off our feet---i mean literallty!!! At one stage we had to squat down to not get blown over!!!. By this stage it was dark and we could hardly see where we were going, plus the rocks were slippery from the bit of rain. Just to add to the adventure!!! Also---after walking all day, we were all exhausted---our feet were just in automatic mode, as our bodies had had enough---all 3 of us!!!

It was 7.00 when we arrived back at the house---ahhh, to sit down!!! Pablo pulled out some snacks to munch on, as dinner wasn´t ready. The lady didn´t think we would be back so quickly---speedy gonzalesez!!!

We were sitting on a bed in a room---bed in one corner, a pile of corn drying in the other, a dried sheeps carcass hanging over our head and even the sheeps head in the corner!! Country life hey!!! We were supposed to be sleeping at the next little village along in a refuge, about another 20 minutes walk along. But the thought of walking more in the dark and blowy weather---actually, just the thought of even walking, was too much!!! We asked Pablo if it was possible to stay and sleep where we were---i think even he liked the idea!!! We were all stuffed!!! But---where to sleep---as this was the bedroom of someone from the house. But---they would be happy for the money they would get from us staying there---so thats where we stayed put---not a step further!!!

After a yummy warming soup and dinner---sleep!!! Jesus and i shared the small bed, which was as hard as a rock, and with no pillow. Pablo---well, a few blankets on top of the pile of corn, plus our sleeping bag made his bed for the night!!! Maybe even more comfy than ours!!!

The next day, a trip to the river to fill our water bottles (with water yummier than pre-bottled water!!!), bread and api ( a drink made with purple corn) for breaky---and off we set again!!!

After stopping at the house of one of the locals to see her weavings---it was a 2-3 hour hike to the village where we were to get the local bus back to Sucre. Easy Peasy!!!

But----we arrived at 12.00---and Pablo asked one of the locals re the bus. It had left at 11.30, and the second bus for the day was cancelled!!! Plus, no local cars to hitch a ride!!! Great!!!

So--what to do? Well---the only option---walk more!!! We had to walk another4 hours to the next town---had to cross a river (no bridge!!!) that was fairly wide and came up to our knees (not to mention the slippery rocks!!!--and get a lift in the back of a truck!!!
Day 1 we hiked about 25km and day 2 about 15-20km!!! Not bad for 2 days hiking hey!!!But---seriously---exhausted bodies and tired feet.

We arrived back in Sucre with literally just enought time to pick up our back-packs from the hotel where we had stayed, ask the guy if we could "borrow" his shower, and then off to the bus station for our over-night bus to Cochabamba. Boy were we happy to finally sit down in a "comfy" bus seat!!! Waiting for us in Cochabamba---our special friend Linda---yippeeeee!!!

So---until Cochabamba and our travel tales with Linda---

Lots of love

Llamas Bailando xxoo

Bolivia---part 2.

After an overnight bus trip, and stops in little towns along the way (where this lady was selling her flourescent-coloured douhgnutty things!!!)---our next stop in Bolivia was a town called Tupiza---a cute little town set in an amazing landscape of coloured rocks, cactus, hills, mountains and canyons. It was like being in the Wild West, but without the cowboys!!! Actually, speaking of cowboys---near the Tupiza is where Butch cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their "last stand" fate, after their last payroll robbery---an apt setting!!!

This area was great for hiking (and biking and horse-riding if you like)---but we played "tour guide" for ourselves---exploring the surrounding gorges and canyons on foot. The canyon walls were rocks of incredible colours---reds, yellow, white---with cactus forests and incredible rock formations. Close up the mountains looked like red clay, with stones set in it---almost like a man-made mixture.




























Our first hike took us following the canyon photographed above. Beautiful views and rock formations, lots of cactus and cute little goats wandering around. The local "campesinos" (farmers) herding their animals--goats, and even llamas--yep, more photos!!!

The cactus has a beautiful wood, which the locals use to make furniture, lamps and all sorts of things. One day we went looking for a place where they were making things---we ended up at this workshop, which was actually a detention centre. We were let in the closed gate to where the men were making things to sell---each one trying to convince us to buy something!!

Our second day´s hike took us down another canyon---on a slightly more adventurous route!!! We never seen to follow the " normal" path---this one took us clambering up and over the rocks, dodging cactus bushes and prickly trees!!! We had to be careful not to get pricked by the cactus, or step on the thorny branches all over the ground. But---by taking the more extreme adventurous path you get to see more amazing things!!! The different rock formations, views over the canyon---

and the beautiful cacti and desert flowers.

Apart from enjoying the surrounding countryside, beautiful views and sunsets from lookouts---there was not much else to do in Tupiza. Except enjoy the best coffee so far over here (hard to find!!!) in a cafe run by friendly but eccentric man and his cute cat called Phantasmo---who became our best friend!!!

After Tupiza, a bit further south to a town called Tarija---and what a welcome we received here!!! We were feeling happy to arrive here after yet another night in bus, and found our way to the main plaza---as we always do to orientate ourselves and find a hostel. We sat there enjoying the plaza, the pretty gardens and most of all, the morning sun warming us up. At 8.00, a small police band plyed the National Anthem and flags were raised on surrounding buildings. We noticed that poeple in and around the plaza stood for the anthem---but we also did notice others seated---so we remained seated where we were and "peacefully" watched the morning ceremony.

When the ceremony ended, a man and a woman approached us. The man asked Jesus "Where are you from", and they both began to tell him/us off for being disrespectful and not standing for the anthem---more so to Jesus as a "fellow Latin American". He continued to pick on Jesus---told him off for not taking off his hat---as we arrived in the chilly morning, Jesus had on a woollen beanie. Basically---anything he could critisize!!!

We apologised, that it was not our intention to be disrespectful---but they both went on and on and on. In the end I said to them "Ok---that´s enough. We apologise. We came here to visit your city as tourists and had no intention of being disrespectful. Plus, why don´t you speak to your fellow countrymen who were also seated in the park"!!!

The man then flashed us some ID, but not long enough to see anything, told us he was from the Police---and asked to see Jesus´documents. I told Jesus to show him nothing. One rule of travellers is to never show your passport/documents to just anyone on the street---as even some "police" can be fake police wanting to rob you. (Yep---welcome to latin America!!!). With which the man asked us to accompany him to "an office". Again we refused for the same reason---where did he want to take us!!! I actually said---"Thanks for the great welcome to your city. If you want us to leave we will happily go!!!"

Anyway---he told us that if we didn´t accompany him---he would call the Interpol Police---which he did!!! They approached us, formally introduced themselves and asked us to accompany them for "a routine document check". I actually asked them who the other man was---"He is from the Intelligence Police". I was so annoyed by this stage, that I replied "Well---he is not very intelligent, as he has picked on us for no reason"!!! Oooops---couldn´t help myself!!!

In thier office they actually had a poster on their wall warning about "fake police"!!! I explained that the other guy showed us no ID---and pointed out their poster. They actually agreed with us, took our document details and that was it.
As we left the office i said to Jesus, so that the men could hear us, that this was plain discrimination. As, also at border crossings the immigration police discriminate against Jesus and give him a harder time and interogate him more---because he is Indigenous-looking, is travelling with a "gringa", has long hair and a bit of a "hippy" look about him.

But---after that "welcome"---we actually stayed in Tarija for a week!!! Enjoying our cute little hostel, with TV and the best, hottest shower ever!!!---hard to come by over here!!! Plus, after freezing in La Paz and the altiplano, enjoying the warmer weather.

Tarija was a nice, Colonial style town---but what we did notice was that the town centre was full of "white, wealthy Bolivians". Not the begging you see on the streets in other cities--all the people well dressed, and the young kids parading around in the latest fashion and driving around in new cars. Plus---lots of police everywhere. In actual fact, the "mercado central" (central market) was a 20 minute walk from the town centre. This is the typical market, normally found in the town centre, and where all the Indigenous people were. A real separation of the Indigenous and non-indigenous culture.

Kind of explains the mentality of the Tarijans---and why the police picked on Jesus---racism, for want of a better word!!!

We enjoyed expoloring the surrounding towns and countryside---and even visited a winery!! As the climate is warmer here, the region is becoming "known" for its wine producing. Bolivian wine---hmmm---let´s say we have better wine in Australia!!! But---it was a fun and interesting experience. We arrived and entered the "tasting room". With which the young guy handed us a glass and filled it with wine. Not your usual explanation and "small" tastings---just a full glass---the another in the other hand filled with a different wine!!! Plus---he just kept filling the glass. In th end we had to go in to the restuarant to eat somethingbefore he just kept giving us more wine!!! It was very funny. Wine tasting Bolivian-style---not the best wine---but if they get you tipsy---you buy some bottles!!!

Plus we did a bit of hiking and searching for the "hidden" waterfalls---paths not very well marked!!! But---we found them---and a nice refreshing bath as reward!!!

Our next stop was Potossi---a town famous for its silver mines. The town is set at the foot of the "Cerro Rico"---or "Rich Mountain---obviously named as it is full of silver, and provides the Potossians with their income!!!

Potossi was actually a pleasant surprise. From reading our "travel bible" I had imagined a really poor and run-down city---but it was actually really cute, and had a nice feel about it. Old, but Colonial in style, with some gorgeous old buildings.

On our first morning, our "search for coffee" took us inside one of these buildings, and up a narrow, winding staircase to a cafe literally on the roof-top. With beautiful views over Potossi---the buildings, the cute tiled roof-tops, the bell towers of the church next door and the Cerro Rico in the background. You could even walk along the roof-top and around the narrow edge of the dome at one end---something that would be highly illegal in other countries, as if you slipped and fell---it was a long way down---and obviously there was no protective fencing or barrier to stop you falling. Yep---welcome to Latin America!!!

But, it was a beautiful and tranquil place to enjoy our coffee and the best humitas ever. Humitas are these yummy things ; made with ground corn and other things added, wrapped up in the corn leaves and steamed. These ones in Potossi were the best---one was sweet, with raisins, the other with chees and spicy---YUM!!!

and--even a special message written for Jesus!!! Translated---"Jesus is the love of Potossi". hee hee hee!!!

The next day we did a mine tour---where you get to see the pretty basic and primitive conditions in which the miners here work. In the past the "workers" used in these mines were African slaves--if the conditions are bad now, you can just imagine how they would have been in those times!! The mines were closed down so as people could not be abused in this manner. They are now independently run by co-operatives---the people pretty much work for themselves and have their own area to mine, and earn from what they take out. The mines go up to 7km in to the mountain and the temperature can vary from below freezing to 45 degrees, depending on where in the mountain they are located.

As these are real working mines, and not museums, you get to see how the life of a miner really is. Our guide was an ex-miner, so he knew what to show us and we got to meet and speak with the men working.

Our first port of call was the tour office, where we drank a cup of coca-tea before getting "dressed" and ready in our miners clothes---pants, a jacket, gumboots and a helmet with light. Next stop, the miners market---an area where the miners go to buy all their mining needs!!! We went there to buy gifts for the miners; cola, coca leaves, cigarettes or puro ( a cheap alcohol they drink to "relax" after work!!!). Their favourite present---the coca leaves!!! they basically chew coca leaves all day---as it represses hunger and tiredness. The "typical" miners face is with a "lump" in their cheek---as they chew the coca leaves and make a "ball" which they leave inside their cheek.

Then---it was off to the mine. We got to enter several parts and levels of the mine; saw the miners manually drilling, felt the hot and musty and dusty conditions in which they work, and how they manually haul the rubble out with buckets. Jesus even had a go turning the handle with another worker to haul out a bucket---he was tired after one go---so imagine doing this all day!!!

We went down tunnels and holes and ladders to different--literally narrow tunnels built straight down, with a wooden step ladder down to the next level---we went down to about 30m. Here we stopped and chatted with the miners, and shared coca leaves!!!

Walking through the narrow tunnels, we occasionally had to move quickly out of the way as the men came manually pushing trollies full of the mined rubble!!!

Most of the work is done manually and obviously the conditions in which the men work are pretty dangerous---plus they are exposed to a lot of dust and noxious chemicals from the explosives they use, as they even put cyanide in the explosives to make the explosion bigger!!! Many miners die at a young age from silicosis pneumonia.

Each of the mines has a statue called "El Tio" that they worship. El Tio is a statue of a devil that is "decorated" with offerings of coca leaves, cigarettes amd alcohol---El Tio protects the miners. The miners also give offerings and ask for luck in their finds---if they are not having much luck in finding good "bands" of material, they will go to Tio with offerings to ask for help.

Traditionally women were not allowed to enter the mine, as it was believed that El Tio and Pacha Mama (Mother Earth) were lovers, and that El Tio would get jealous if other women entered the mine, and bring bad luck to the miners!!!

So---we got to visit El Tio in our mine, and gave him offerings of coca leaves and a cigarette to smoke!!!

Our last port of call was to where some men were working with explosives. They drilled holes in the wall and placed in the dynamite sticks, ready to ignite. We moved far away when they were ready---and then BOOM!!!---the whole area shook, the noise was deafening and the smell of the explosives was intoxicating. "Let´s go"---said our guide---time to get out!!!

But, all in all, it was an eye-opening experience!!!

Apart from that---we visited the old money-mint (where it is also said that African slaves were used and over-worked, and basically died in the conditions that they were kept), enjoyed the local culture, sunset over the town from the look-out tower and bought Jesus a hand-woven poncho and a couple of "mantels". Mantels are colourful squares of fabric, hand woven and made using sheep, llama or Alpaca wool. The women wear these wrapped around them like shawls, as protection from the cold. But--they are beautful, and the colour/design unique to the region from which they come. They will make colourful table cloths at home!!! I could have bought the whole store---but a bit hard to carry in the back-pack!!!

We could have spent more time in Potossi---but our special friend Linda (who most of you know!!!) was on her way Bolivia bound, and we were soon to meet up---very exciting!!!

But---not before we got to enjoy a sunset view over Potossi from the look-out tower, and Jesus got to drink his "Potossian" beer. He is collecting labels from the different Sth American beer bottles---and in Bolivia, each town seems to have its own beer---so he "has to" drink at least one---to collect the label of course!!

So---that was the interesting town of Potossi---but time to move on. Before I sign off, i will share this photo with you. This old lady was begging/selling her woven or knitted goods next to where we bought our yummy humitas. We felt sorry for her, so had to buy something!!! She was so happy. The girl selling the humitas had to ask her if i could take her photos---as she only spoke Quechua--but she didn´t seem to mind. She was just happy and grateful that we had "helped" her by buying something. How sweet!!!

So---until the next travel tale

Lots of love

Llamas Bailando xxoo

Bolivia---part 1, more photos!!!

Hola!!! Please enjoy the following photo blog. These first photos are from Copacabana. Check out the first one---the local butcher shop---great hygene hey!!!

And now---more shots from our Uyuni adventure---enjoy!!!

And to finish this photo-shoot---some more cute Llamas!!!

and---their poops!!!

Until the next blog---hope you enjoyed these photos as much as we enjoyed taking them!!!
lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo

Bolivia---part 1.

Welcome to Bolivia!!Bolivia will come to you in 3 parts. We spent about 6 weeks travelling this relatively small country...a country full of Andean colour and culture. Our adventures too many for one blog!!!

Enjoy...

Our first stop was Copacabana...no, not the bikini-clad Brazilian beach...but the cute town on the Bolivian side of lake Titicaca!!! A town full of hostels and hotels, shops selling all the colourful South American fabrics, cafes and little local eateries lining the lake-shore, where we enjoyed yummy fresh fish meals for about $3!!!

We enjoyed Copacabana for a few days...relaxing a bit, and a bit of hiking in the surrounding countryside, with beautiful views back over the lake-side town.

I was actually a bit sick durung our time there...sore throat, a bit of a fever. I went to the doctor...and as the swine flu epidemic had just reached Bolivia...we sat there looking at each other as the doctor went through his "swine flu symptoms" check list, then left the room to confer with his collegues. Fortunately for me..just a throat infection!!!

Next stop...the impressive capital of La Paz...set in the middle of the Andes, at a dizzying 3660m (the highest capital in the world). The approach in bus to the city is a spectacle...as you approach from above...and suddenly the town appears...the city huge and sprawling from down below and climbing up the sides of the valley, with snow-covered peaks as the backdrop.

The town centre is actually quite cute..for a large city!!! The cobble-stone streets climb up and down the hills...making it good for exercise...and at this altitude for shortness of breath!!! The streets are full of life and colour...street vendors selling anything from souvineers to drinks, food, fosslis (real or fake??)...to you name it...they sell it!!! Plus shop after shop selling all the beautiful colourful fabrics and weavings and ponchos and instruments and souvineers and clothes. Not to mention the street stalls and the local markets and flower stalls and even the Witches market, where they sell all sorts of oddities...herbs, magic potions, spells, coca leaves and even dried Llama foetuses!!

The locals dressed in their typical colouful clothes...the women with long coloured skirts, knitted jumpers, a colourful shawl and their hair in two long plaits with a bowler hat perched on their heads and the men in ponchos from the varying regions. This mixed with people dressed in their business suits snd teenagers dresses in the latest fashion. Contrasted with this, the people begging in the streets and children earning a living with their little shoe-polishing business. It makes me sad to see this poverty...children basically raised and taught that begging is the way to "earn"money, and the old women asking for money, looking longingly with their dark brown sad eyes that reach right in to your soul. But...it also makes me even more grateful for the life and opportunities that we have.

From La Paz we did a 1 day bike tour which takes you down what is called "The Worlds Most Dangerous Road"...and yep, fortunately for us...we survived!!! There was, however, numerous spot with crosses and flowers marking accident points!!! The road begins at 4700m and over 64kn winds down to 1100m...an a mostly gravel road that is 3m wide, with a drop to the valley below of up to 200m.But...a bit of adventure and adrenelin is good for the soul!!!

The bike ride ends in a gorgeous little town called Coroico...set at a lower altitude in a beautiful sub-tropical valley, and hence warmer. We decided to stay in Coroico a couple of days and enjoy a bit of sunshine, the local mountain culture, hiking in the surrounding countryside and the beautiful relaxing views over the surrounding mountains. The hostel where we stayed even had a swimming pool...what back-packers luxury!!!

Our next stop; Oruru...a bit further south and in the middle of nowhere...literally. The approach in bus was a bit scary...desert, dirty and a bit dodgy looking!!! We almost jumped on the next bus out...but the actual town itself was quite nice!!! We even found a yummy vegetarian restuarant (rare for Sth America...the meat eating capital of the world!!)...where we ate yummy home-cooked spaghetti for $3 and a huge portion of Apple Pie for $1!!! Yum!!! Jesus was a bit wary at first...he has turned back in to a real carnivore over here...but even he enjoyed this...we even went back our second night there!!!

From Oruru we wanted to take the train further south...one of the only train lines that existes in the country. But..in true Latin American style...they were on strike...so it was yet another bus trip. The overnight bus arrived on Uyuni at 3.30am!! But, fortunately they let us sleep on the bus until the sun came up. Just as well...as it was sooooo cold outside that there was ice on the inside of the bus windows in the morning!!! BRRRR!!!!

Uyuni. Well..this is a town really in the "middle of nothing to do" (to use a Jesus expression!!!) Freezing and with literally nothing to do in the town itself. So..why did we go there?! Uyuni was a thriving town in the days when Bolivia had an extensive train industry, as it was there that many of the trains were constructed. Now..they survive on tourism..yep, thats us!!!

So..what tourism here in the "middle of nothing to do?" Well, it is from Uyuni that you do a 3 day trip in 4-wheel-drive across the most incredible and amazingly beautiful landscape.

The first day, they take you to visit the train cemetary!!! Where, obviously, the remains of a lot of the now unused trains are left to rot in...yep, the middle of nothing to do!!!

From there you cross the Salt Flats of Uyuni. this is an incredible sight...it is the worlds largest salt flats...12,000 sq km´s...so when you are in the middle of it, all you see is a sea of pure white salt as far as the horizon. Also, as it was the dry season, the surface crust of the salt formed all these beautiful hexagonal patterns. We had fun taking silly photos...as the sea of white against the beautiful blue sky creates an optical illusion.

Our lunch stop was at "Fish Island"...named because from the distance it looks like a large fish!!! This island is in the middle of the salt flats, and is covered with cactus...up to 1000 years old. Amazing to walk around and enjoy the incredibly spectacular views. Lots of photos taken!!!

The salt flats were at 3653---.and from there, we entered the "altiplano desert"---desert at high altitude. Nice sunny days and clear blue skies---but icy winds and freezing at night (way below zero...brrr!!!). We slept with sleeping bags, 2 blankets and lots of clothes..including these "sexy" fleecy leggings that we bought for $1.50!!! But---they were toasty!!! The first night we slept in a little village even more in the "middle of nothing to do" than Uyuni. What do poeple do living in such freezing remote isolation!!! We did, however, manage to find the one cafe/bar/shop in town---where we were entertained by the 5 year old boy Armando---cute!!

Next morning after breaky, off we set across the desert. After about 1/2 an hour in to our day, the car skidded---one of the wheels had come off and kept rolling about 100m before coming to a stop!!! Our driver reckoned that someone had loosened the nuts...as the wheel just literally rolled off---who knows, anything is possible over here!!! Fortunately we found 2 of the nuts (he had no spares!!) and then took 1 nut from each of the other 3 wheels---leaving each with 5 nuts on each tyre---apparently thats ok!!! (hmmm...!!!) Also fortunately that we were in the middle of a flat area with soft ground---so the car didn´t roll!!

But---5 nuts on each tyre---and onwards we continued!!! The landscape was so remote and incredibly beautiful---with mountains around us of amazing reds and yellow and pink and white---different minerals forming patterns like they were painted. It was like being on another planet.

We also stopped at a couple of areas where there were these amazing rock formations, including the "Arbol de Piedra" (tree of stone)---check out the photo and you will see why!!! (hee hee) These formations are made by erosion and the strong winds that blow up here in the altiplano---and they make for great photos!!! We were both always the last back in the car after our exploring and photo-taking expeditions!!!

Being at such high altitude and cold, windy environment---there was minimal plant life---which kind of added to the remote beauty of the landscape. there were these cute green "clumpy" plants that added a bit more colour!!! These also contain borax---but now this area is a National Park, and any mining for commercial uses is fortunately illegal!!

Our next stop for the day was for lunch at a beautiful lake in the middle of this remoteness. Our guide had told us that if we were lucky ---we would see Flamingos---3 species live on the lakes in this region, but migrate for the winter. Well---we arrived at the lake, and guess what---a group of beautiful Flamingos bathing in the water. Just as I was taking (lots!!!) of photos---in the sky appeared more Flamingos. Wow, to see them in flight---another group was arriving. I had to stop taking photos to eat lunch---but went back for more afterwards. It was a nice, sunny afternoon, and the Flamingos were so cute---enjoying bathing and splashing around in the water. What a treat to see them!!

Our last stop for the day was at "Laguna Colorada" (Coloured Lake)---an amazing lake coloured red and white---white from Borax and red from an algae that grows in the water

Our refuge for the night was near this lake---at 4300m---in for a colder night (lucky for the sexy fleecy leggings!!!). On arrival, after a coffee to warm us up, Jesus and I went for a bit of a walk in search of Vicuñas. Vicuñas are part of the Llama family---actually, their wool is the finest and warmest---and they are really beautiful and graceful animals. Unlike Llamas, Vicuñas are wild animals, and in many parts if Sth America they are protected, and it is illegal to keep them as pets. We saw some in the distance---but it was getting too cold and too late to walk any further. But, arriving back at the refuge, we saw some Llamas that the locals had as pets. They are such beautiful animals---they have the cutest faces!!! Jesus went inside to get out of the cold---but I couldn´t let a Llama photo-opportunity pass by. My fingers nearly froze off chasing the "best" photo---bit I got some cute ones!!!

Day 3 we were awoken at 5.15 to visit some geysers. Our guide told us that it was probably about minus 13 degrees outside---and brrrrr---it felt like it!!! We even "crunched" across shallow, frozen rivers on the way!!! But the early, cold wake-up was worthwhile. To see the geysers steaming at 4900m as the sun was beginning to appearwas an awesome sight.

Our next stop was at some thermal waters where there was a pool for bathing. Many people were too scared to go in, as it was so cold outside. But--how could you not in this incredibly beautiful setting---the sun rising, a beautiful lake steaming in the morning air and surrounded by amazing mountains---ahhhhh!!! The water was so yummy---it was really an amazingly beautiful experience. Plus---when we got out of the water, the sun was warming up the morning air, and there was no breeze---it was actually really invigorating.

After a yummy breakfast , off we set in our 4-wheel drive, again through more beautiful scenery. One area was called "Dali Rocks" countryside. Dali visited this area in the 1950´s and was inspired by the landscape for some of his paintings. It is like sandy desert with rocks scattered sparsly and mountains as the backdrop. We passed this area in the early morning, and with the effect of the morning light, it had a really etherial feel. You could see how any artist would be inspired by this landscape.

Our next stop was at "Laguna Verde" (Green Lake). This is yet another incredibly beautiful place, with the lagoon a pretty green colour, with its backdrop an impressive volcano. The other side of this volcano is actually in Chile (just for a piece of useless information!!!). The lagoon was still half frozen!! We had fun throwing bits of ice on the top ---it was so thick it didn´t break. Plus, playing like kids, stepping on frozen puddles to see if they would crack!! Yep---it was pretty cold outside!!!

We stopped at the Chilean border---as many people use this "tour" to cross over in to Chile. The rest of us continued on back to Uyuni---a long, but beautiful drive. We stopped at the "Valley of Rocks"---another area scattered with impressive rock formations. Here we saw a Viscacho perched on the rock edge. They are rabbit-like animals with long tails, and they like to live in rock crevices. Yep---more photos!!!

Our lunch stop for the day was in another of the cute little villages in the middle of this remoteness. Beautiful views, more Llamas and a yummy home-cooked lunch---and more Llama photos!!! Can´t help myself!!!

So---hundreds of photos and an incredibly beautiful 3 days later---our 4-wheel drive adventure
came to an end.
I couldn´t fit any more photos on this page---so you will have to check out "Bolivia---part 1, more photos" to see more of our amazing adventure.
Until our next travel tale---enjoy the following "photo blog".
Lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo

Peru

So...post hiking adventures!!! We spent a few days in Huaraz relaxing, enjoying the nearby thermal baths and our favourite cafe with great coffee and Apple Pie...and waiting for Jesus´ foot to recover...he could hardly walk!!!

Our next stop was Lima...we aren´t usually big fans of the big cities...but we stayed for a few days at the house of a friend Sylvia. For those of you who remember my adventures in Israel (many years ago!!!)...Sylvia is a Peruvian lady who I befriended working on the archaelogical excavation there. It was nice to catch up with her. Its funny the paths life takes sometimes...when we first met i obviously spoke no Spanish (she speaks English)...now i am married to a South American and speak Spanish!!!...which was a surprise for her!!! So..we had our own "personal tour" of Lima.

Plus..we also caught up with two couples who we met earlier in Cajamarca. They invited us to a place where they go Tango dancing every Sunday...so yes, add tango dancing to our list of credits!!!

From Lima we headed straight down the coast to Arequipa...a pretty, colonial style town in the South of Peru. It is affectionaltely called "La Ciudad Blanco..The White City"...as the buildings are all built from a white stone that comes from the area...they are really beautiful.The whole coast line of Peru...from Ecuador in the North to Chile in the South is amazing...it is just one long stretch of desert....actually...it is not the most attractive!!

Arriving in Arequipa was interesting...passing through lots of shanty-like towns basically in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by sand dunes!!!---then all of a sudden arriving in this lovely city...like an Oasis. A popular "touristy"thing to do from Arequipa is hiking in the Colca Canyo...considered to be equal to the Grand Canyon in splendour. But...enough of hiking for us...for now, anyway!!!

We just enjoyed the town centre...plus observed a demonstration by some of the Indigenous people from a nearby village, where some of their fellow villagers had been killed defending their land against petrolium exploitation. Just to add a bit of spice and adventure to our travels!!!

From Arequipa...it was across to Puno on the shores of the spectacular Lake Titicaca. This is one of the worlds highest navigable lakes (at 3820m)...and borders Peru and Bolivia. The Lake and its Islands are steeped in history and culture and tradition...and it is very sacred for the Peruvian and Bolivian indigenous people. There are several inhabited islands which you can visit...some from Peru and some from Bolivia. We did a really fantastic 2 day trip from Puno...full of colour and South American culture.

The first day we visited the "Floating Islands" of the Uros poeple...an Indigenous group whose native language is Amayra. There is about 40 of these small islands, which are made entirely from the Tortora reed which grows in abundance in the lake...hence they are called the "floating islands". The base of the island is made from the reed interwoven, on top of which they place piles of longer reeds, which are replaced as they decompose. The houses are also made from the reed...as are their boats, called "Tortoras". There is a basic primary school on some of the islands...the kids have to go by boat...but for any

further education, they have to go to live in
Puno. The islands are small...but full of colour..with the beautiful weavings and their colourful clothes!! The people of these islands exists on fishing and of course now, tourism...selling their colourful weavings and artisaneas to us tourists!!! But...it was fun and interesting to see how these people live. They even sung us some of their local songs...in return we had to sing songs from our countries!!

The next island was called "Amantani"...this was to be our home for the night. This was a larger island on which about 4000 people live in 10 communities. They live a fairly basic existence; in mud brick houses, with minimal electricity and eat mainly what they grow...corn, beans,potato etc.We were met at the port by members of our "families" for the night...2 people each went to stay at the houses of different families, where they looked after us for the night and prepared us typical dishes...YUM!!! (even better for me, as they are mainly vegetarian!!!).In the afternoon we all met for "locals vs tourists" sporting matches. The men played soccer...which was very competative....the men take their soccer seriously!! The women...we played volleyball...they thrashed us!!! It was funny to see the women dressed in their typical clothes playing volleyball!! We then walked to a temple at the highest point of the island (4100m) to watch a beautiful sunset, followed by dinner at our "home".

Then..the party!!! Our families dressed us in typical dress...Jesus, a poncho and a hand-knitted and decorated hat...me, a white blouse with hand embroidered decoration, a big orange skirt, a colourful sash wrapped around my waist and a black shawl elaborately hand stitched at both ends. Actually we looked like idiots...all with our jeans or pants under the skirts to keep warm, and hiking boots!!!...but we had fun. The party was in the local hall, where some of the musicians from the local community provided entertainment

(pretty badly out of tune..but oh well!!...they were really enjoying themselves most importantly)...and we all danced. All in all...a fun and funny experience.

The next morning after breaky...farewell to Amantani and off to Taquille...a really beautiful and interesting island where the people live steeped in their traditional manner and customs..which in themselves are very different and really interesting.They have their own mayor...elected by the men, and it is his job to see that the "rules" and traditions of the island are upheld. The rules: no lying, no stealing, no laziness!! No lazyness hey...they actually have no horses or cows or donkeys to do manual labour...it is all done by hand, and any carrying is done on their backs!!!

They actually receive no help from the Peruvian government, but they do have UNESCO recognition for their incredibly beautiful textiles and weavings. The women do the weaving...the men knit!!! Actually...the men start to learn to knit from bout 5 years old. They walk around the island in their distinct outfit...black pants, a white shirt (which they make themselves...Jesus actually bought one, almost off the mans back!!), a black vest and a colourful woven sash (made by the women) around their waist and an incredibly beautiful knitted hat, which they knit themselves. They also carry and equally colourful knitted "chuspa"...a small bag in which they carry coca leaves...this they chew on, and also it is a custom when they meet someone, they exchange coca leaves as a greeting gesture. So...they walk around knitting!!! The better the knitter, the finer and more intricate and tighter the textile. It is said when a man wants to marry, he takes his knitting to the prospective father-in-law..if it hold water without leaking, it is good quality, he is a good craftsman...and he is good to marry!!! If not...go away and try again in 6 months...and practice your knitting!!! He can try up to 3 times...if he doesnt succeed after this...he cant marry the daughter!!! These knitted hats that they wear are beautiful...and there is 3 different designs. They are all the same pointed pixie-like shape...but with different patterns. The children´s one is brown at the top half, a colourful design on the bottom part with a knitted fringe around the edge. Single men; the top is white and the bottom beautifully decorated in red and white with a pom pom at the point. They wear it folded over in the middle with the pom pom hanging to the back...but when they are looking for a wife, they wear it folded over with the pom pom to the side!! Married men; their hat is extremely colourful with intricate design all over. They are all like incredibly beautiful works of art. As for the women. They wear a big coloured skirt, a white blouse, a beautiful woven sash around their waist and a black shawl with big pom poms on the ends. If they are single, the pom poms are colourful, but when they marry, they are usually one colour. The women actually weave the sashes that their prospective husband will wear!!!
As for marriage...it is considered a life long committment. Divorce is not allowed, and if your partner dies, out of respect, you cannot marry again. The men and women, therfore, are allowed to live together for up to 3 years to see if the partner is "right". But the men can only live in this "trial situation" with up to 3 girls...if they dont marry one of these girls they are considered a playboy. So...watch out boys!!!! Also, the ceremony itself is different..it is not like our "happy occasion". The couple go to the civil office, then to the church...but they musn´t smile or look happy!!! They then spend the next week in the kneeling position all day, and sleep in a bed with the god-parents....great hey!!! Meanwhile---people party around them...only after this time can they live as a married couple. If they ever fight or have marital problems...they need to remember the hardship of this ceremony...and resolve the problem!!!

So...that´s Taquille...a beautiful Island with amazing views over the spectacular Lake Titicaca...and over to Bolivia in the distance. But...not before i bought one of the beautiful knitted hats...which is photograhed to the left with its "knitter"!!! And...that was Peru. It was back to Puno for the night...and then off to our next stop; Bolivia!!

I actually hate border crossings...the officials working there are always scary and like to hassle and feel "important". Plus...even though they are"neighbouring countries"...they can also be a bit discriminatory towards Jesus. We have even learnt to give our passports together so they can see we are married...and it makes a little bit of a difference. How ridiculous!!! Leaving Peru...the guy seemed friendly...until he sat down behind the desk!!! He then looked at Jesus and said"do you have the paper i am going to ask you for?"!!! Jesus assumed he was referring to his "Andean Immigration card" which they gave him leaving Ecuador. "No...your police record check" said the guy!!! Which...by the way...they do not need this to travel...you wouldn´t get a passport if you had any problems with the law!!! What´s more...we were leaving the country...not entering!!! "Impossible"said Jesus...with which the guy looked at me and said "Is this your wife"...then told me i would be travelling on my own!!! As I said "i am not going anywhere"...the guy stamped our passports and handed them to us. We just looked at him..."You can go""" he said. What an a...!!! Hassling just to feel important.

Ahhh...the travellers life!!! At least it makes it a bit more spicy...South American style!!
So...until next travel tale...i leave you with this photo of "real" spices Sth American style (just cos i liked it!!!)

Lots of love

Llamas Bailando xxoo

Huaraz

Next stop...Huaraz. What is Huaraz?...and why a blog all of its own!!? Well...Huaraz is a town set in the mountains of Peru. It is the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca mountain range...Literally "The White Mountain range"...because the mountains are covered in snow. It is one of the largest mountain ranges in the world, has some of the highest mountain peaks...and incredible views!!! It is a mekka for adventurers who like hiking and climbing mountains.

We kind of stumbled" across Huaraz. I read about it in our Lonely Planet travel "bible"---so we thought why not check it out---as most of you know we like a bit of trekking and adventure!! Well---what a surprise---we have had the most incredible time here---hence it deserves a blog of its own!!
The town itself is surrounded by snow-capped mountains---even our hostel room had amazing mountain views...the photo at the left is the view from our room...not bad hey!!!


We arrived early one morning---and by the afternoon found ouselves booked in for a 3 night, 4 day trek in the Huascaran National Park. Our first taste of the mountains.

So---at 6 o´clock the next morning off we set. After a 3 hour
bus ride to our "starting point", we met up with Pablo and our 5 donkeys who were to be our "porters" for the trip--they carried all the food and tents and stuff. So-
--ready---off we set down the mountain valley. We were hiking in lush green mountain countryside with all these gorgeous, colourful wildflowers (see some of the photos below!!!) following a river which had beautiful, crystal clear, turquoise coloured water---pure water flowing direct from the snowy mountains---the back drop---these amazingly beautiful, rugged (and very, very tall!!!) snow-capped mountains---ahhh---pure bliss!!!!




































































These mountains were our home for the next 4 days!!! They were also the back-drop for our campsites---what a relaxing way to go to sleep each night!! Our camp consisted of our tents, a "kitchen" tent and a "dining" tent---where we hung out at night chatting and telling stories!! One of our guides was also a chef---so we were treated to a yummy warming soup and a main course each night---pretty snazzy for camping!! Jesus befriended the guides pretty quickly---and hung out in the kitchen tent!! I wonder why!!




The first morning Jesus and I woke before the sun rose, and were treated to seeing the mountains glow in the moonlight, and gradually glisten as the sun rose from behind. We even took a quick (very quick!!!) morning bath in the river---remember, the water literally came directly from the melting snow---so was pretty freezing--but invigorating!!! Next---we were treated to
pancakes for breakfast---YUM!!!---energy food for the days hiking ahead.



























































Day 2 of the hike was a longer days hike and took us higher up in the mountains--it was amazing to see the countryside change as we climbed to higher altitude--and we were lucky to have nice clear weather to treat us to more spectacular views. The vegetation became more sparse---but we were even closer to the mountains. When we arrived at our camp for the night, we were just awe struck---we were pretty much surounded by 360 degrees of majestic snow-capped mountains---the scenery just kept getting better!!! It was still sunny when we arrived, so we all had a dip in the icy river--and warmed up in the afternoon sun, while enjoying a nice warming cup of coca tea, with some popcorn!!!---and what better backdrop could we ask for!!? (They drink coca tea and chew coca leaves here to help against altitude sickness---well, thats what they say anyway!!!). This night we were camping at about 4250m--so it was much chillier---the outside of our tent was covered in ice the next morning!!!---brrrr---no morning dip for us!!
We were woken at 5.45 to get an early start to the days hike---but again got to enjoy the mountains light up as the sun rose. As the sun warmed us up--helped by a yummy hot coffee!!!---we were again treated to blue skies and beautiful views.








Today our hike started with a climb to the pass over the mountain range---our highest point at 4750m. As we began the climb, an incredible turquiose/blue lake came in to view in the valley below. We were so lucky to have clear weather to give us spectacular views over the mountain range---it was like having a birdseye view of where we had come from and where we were headed. It was our first time ever to be at such an altitude, and to have such incredible views---what a special treat!!

















The rest of this hike took us back down to where vegetation could grow!!---mind you we were still at over 3500m!!! The last day of the hike even took us through a lots of little villages dotted along the mountain valley. All of the kids came running after us asking if we had any lollies or biscuits to give them---or outright asking for a "propina"--or tip!!! We did get some cute photos though--they loved to pose for photos and were delighted to see themselves on the camera screen!!! Even one old lady got in on the photo shoot...she was fascinated to see herself on the
camera screen!!!



































































It was sad for our 4 days to come to an end--we had a really nice group of people and had an amazing and fun time together.
So much so--that on the way back to Huaraz---a couple of Brazilian guys managed to talk us in to joining them on the next trek they were doing---a 10 day trek!!! Actually---it didn´t take much convincing!! This 10 day trek was in the Huayhuash mountain range---it was rated by the National Geographic as the second most beautiful hike in the world, after a hike in NZ!! So---after a couple of days rest in Huaraz---and a visit to some thermal baths to relax our muscles---off we set again. 10 days of mountain climbing, sleeping in a tent, being fed yummy food by our personal chef Juliot (yes--Jesus also befriended him early on) and pushing ourselves to the limit!!
Before i continue with the next hiking adventure..i will share with you some more photos from this first hike...enjoy these..then..read on...!!!!



















































































































































































































































Well---if we thought our first trek was amazing---Huayhuash was the icing on the cake. 10 days of the most incredible, breathtaking, spectacular views---that no words can do it justice---I will try though!! You will have to enjoy the few photos i can manage to put with this story!!
It was pretty hard going--we walked 150km (!!), between 6-8 hours of hiking every day and hiked over a high mountain pass every day!! Plus we were at an altitude of over 4000m---so physical exercise at this level is even harder as the air gets thinner and thinner. But---the rewards were amazing!! My motto was---you have to "suffer" a bit to enjoy the rewards!! And what rewads were we treated to---more, more and even more incredible mountain views, glaciers, more amazing glistening turquiose lakes---even saw avalanches and condors flying over-head!!! It was hard to be believe that nature could be so incredibly beautiful!!








As we were at such high altitude the countryside was quite barren, but that made the immense mountains even more majestic and spectacular. At times the landscape was like being on another planet. One day our climb took us up the mountainside--our final clamber to the pass was up a 60 degree rock face (yes---you can add rock-climbing to my skills!!---a bit of an adrenelin rush i might add!!). At the top of this climb we entered "mars territory"---it was really like being on another planet. The ground was covered with black and red granite---and sea-shell fossils everywhere---we were at 4850m, but millions of years ago this was in the sea. Pretty amazing!!













Every day on this hike had its challenges---and of course the rewards!!!. Each day had a climb to the mountain pass of anywhere between 4700-5200m!!--and even then our guide often took us up even further to a "lookout" which treated us to even closer mountain views!! And every climb was different---some longer, some steeper, some muddy, one covered with snow!! One of the first passes we crossed was one of the most difficult---our guide had warned us that it was a tough climb--and boy was he right!!!---it was a steep, looong climb to the top.

We started the day with a fairly relaxed hike to the base of the mountain, where we stayed and enjoyed the view--and waited hopefully to see an avalanche on the mountain face in front of us!! As the morning sun heated up the snow---hearing and seeing avalanches became a highlight of our day!!





















But--the "relaxed" hike ended there!! The first part of the climb wasn´t too hard---and we were rewarded with views over the mountains and the lake and the camping area we left behind. However---it seemed to go forever--until finally we arrived at a flat area---"are we there yet"--i said to Jesus!! I was actually wishfully thinking---VERY wishful!!--as we were still literally in the middle of the mountains!! When we got to the other side of this area we could see that the path went up, up and more up, winding up the mountain side---the mountain pass was still a distant "v" in the mountain top!! Hiking like this everyone had their own pace---some faster than others!!---my pace;plod, plod, plod---Jesus went on ahead!!! (i must say though--i wasn´t the slowest!!!)
But--this climb was demanding---i did ask myself if i was actually having fun----at the time it seemed not!!! It was a bit of a mind-over-matter moment---i had to make myself keep going. As the altitude was getting higher and higher, the air was colder and thinner---at one point i was feeling really short of breath (and a bit scared!!)--but "keep going" i told myself---our guide told us at the start of the hike that many problems were psychological---so i reminded myself of that!!! Gee---i really am spilling all the beans now aren´t i!!!


Anyway---as i nearly arrived at the top, Jesus and a couple of the guys who were already there were chearing me on---i was exhausted, puffing and panting and said "I am going to cry"---and i did!!! A mix of laugh and cry and puff and pant---exhaustion and exhileration!!! The others all just laughed!! My first time at 4800m!! The photos to the left prove it!!!!The reward---amazing views and then on the distant mountain in front of us---BOOM---a big avalanche---even amanged to video it!!!











































Every night we had a different mountain or lagoon "backdrop" to our camp-site, every day more spectacular views---it was hard to believe that day after day we were rewarded with yet more breath-taking scenery.









We also had an amazing guide Luca. Instead of taking us on the "normal" trekking route he kept offering us alternatives---harder alternatives that required more climbing---but instead of seeing the mountains from below or from a distance---we were right up close---with the snow and glaciers at eye level, and spectacular 360 degree views of the mountains all around and the turquiose lakes in the valleys below.
























































Plus..he also offered us "optional-extra" activites..like going that bit further to the "lake over there" at the base of that mountain "over there"..which sometimes added an extra hour or two to our day!! One time a few of us did this...we ended up at this "hidden" lake at the base of the mountain...imagine...sunny skies, mountain back-drop, blue water.....no bathers...but who cares!!!! One of these "extra" excursions took Jesus and I to a stunning place where the true story--made in to the film and book called "Touching the Void" actually happened. (see the picture below left).



















































What other adventures did Huayhaush offer us!!? Well---we got to swim in some of the amazing
turquise lagoons right at the base of impressive snow covered mountains; one of the mountain passes that we climbed was covered in snow---so add "snow-climbing" to our resume!!; after freezing nights, waking up to ice-covered tents and frozen grass and water all around (brrrr!!); we visited one of the small villages of the mountains---it was amazing to see how people live in such remote isolation (people also live dotted over the countryside, not even in a village!!!)--the only way in or out of this region is by foot or horse or donkey...and a few days walk at that!!!;we were treated to yummy food cooked by our personal chef; plus---the views---did i mention the breath-taking views---yes we took lots of photos!!!







































































There was also a lot of beautiful flowers and cactus...that grow at these high altitudes. many of them were frozen in the brisk morning air...brrr!!!













































































Our last day, we had a more "relaxed" day---we could chose what we wanted to do---climb another mountain---or---well, the carnivores of the group decided to buy a sheep from the locals (yes, it was alive at that stage!!!)---and it was "prepared in a traditional manner---marinated in local herbs (yes--after it had been killed and chopped up!!) and cooked over hot coals in the ground---i decided to go for a nice "easy" hike to the nearby lagoon instead of see the poor sheep meet its fate!! But---they all enjoyed the feast--me---well, the locally grown sweet potatoes and potatoes cooked in the same "oven" were yummy!!






























At this last camp--we had to cross the river to get to our camping spot---we had to take off our shoes as the stones were covered with water--i still slipped, so Jesus came to help me---and fell in up to his waist (ooops!!)--but also hurt his foot---double ooops!!! Our last 4 hour hike out of the mountains he had to go on horse back---he had never ridden a horse before, let alone climbing up and down the mountain!!!---and ended up with not only a sore foot!!! So---we spent a few days relaxing and recovering in Huaraz---hanging out at out favourite cafe that had the best coffee---and apple-pie!!! YUM!!!








Until our next adventures----enjoy some photos!
Lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo :o)
PS: This first photo is Jesus being...well, just Jesus...and playing with some cow bones that he found lying around...one time he did this...the cows came chasing after us...no joking!!! We had to get to the other side of a river so they would stop!!!

Farewell to Ecuador

Its been a while between blogs---time for a travel update!!

We finally managed to drag ourselves away from our beloved town of Baños--but stayed a while longer in Ecuador. They had presidential elections at the end of April---so Jesus stayed to vote and have a say in his countries future (or to avoid a fine---one or the other. He actually had a fine for not voting last time--even though he wasn´t in the country---welcome to Sth America!!!). Below is Jesus with our friends in the cafe kitchen...and us with my Spanish teacher Judith in Baños.

We spent time with his sisters in Ambato (where he also had to vote), which was nice---but also played tourist a bit more. The first stop was the coast---what was a cute little beach town called Montanita---but unfortunately is now full of noisy bars!! We stayed a couple of days to enjoy the beach---and to eat pataconas (just to make you jealous Cath!!)---but enough of the noisy bars!! Time to head back to the mountains.

Our next little trip was to a town called Zumbahua. Not much happens in this cute little town, except that every Saturday the town square burts into life with a colourful local market.

We had a birdseye view from the balcony of our hostel---watching the locals arrive and set up, carrying tables and heavy loads on their backs---we even saw sheep arriving on top of a bus!!!

It was a typical local market---selling fruit and veggies, sacks of rice and grains, clothes, animals (sheep, pigs, Llamas!!!) and food stalls selling anything from chicken soup to "sopa de cabeza" (sheep head soup!!)---yes i saw pots full of sheeps heads looking up at me!!! I tried to take a photo of the pot of sheeps heads--but the lady got cross with me---she probably thought i was crazy!!!Jesus tucked in heartily with the locals to a traditional "Caldo 31"---tripe soup---i just looked on!!!

There was even an area where locals bought their sheep to be "professionally" killed ond skinned and chopped up---poor things!!!!

We both just love these colourful markets---with all the local indigenous people dressed in their colourful traditional clothes. Jesus joined in the tradition and bought himself a poncho---which he proudly wore when he went off to vote!!

Here is a few more market photos for you to enjoy!!!

And here at this market these poor Llamitas met their fate---i can´t believe i took this photo!! I also can´t believe they eat these cute animals----but i guess we eat kangaroo!!!!

From Zumbahua we visited Quillatoa---WOW!!--this is an impressive turquiose coloured lake in the crater of an extinct volcano, with the mountains and volcanos of the Ecuadorian Andes as its distant backdrop. We had to take a ride in the back of a truck form Zumbahua (with the locals and their pigs and chickens!!!). But---after telling us he was going to Quillatoa---the driver stopped in the middle of nowhere and told us he was going a different route---welcome to Sth America!!! So---what to do?!---well, walk!! Fortunately it was only about a half hour walk to Quillatoa. We enjoyed a few hours there---before having to head back to Ambato.

Here is Jesus at Quillatoa in his new poncho!!!

After voting and spending a few fun days with Jesus´two sisters and families---time to head down south and across the border to Peru---see you later Ecuador!!!
Actually--when we crossed the border---the guy in the Peruvian immigration looked at Jesus´ Ecuadorian passport and gave him a visa for 30 days----and to me he gave 60 days. When we explained that we were married and what was the point of having different visas--he looked and said hmmm---liquid papered out Jesus 30 days and gave him the same as me. Got to love Sth America!!!

The highlight of our time here so far has been in the mountains---but you will have to wait for the next blog for that story!!!

Our first couple of stops were in towns in the north of Peru, where we visited some ruins--one with some really beautiful and well preserved wall decoration.

We spent a few days in a pretty town called Cajamarca, set in the mountains, where we caught up with Claudia, George and Jack (a friend from Melbourne and her 2 kids---for those of you who don´t know)--who were visiting her family there. It was fun to see some familiar faces from home!!!

The town itself is pretty---Colonial style buildings but still with its colourful indigenous culture. The ladies wear colourful skirts and blouses and fabric shawls for carrying things (and kids!!) on their backs, and these tall white straw-like hats. The fabrics here (as in all the countries here with a strong indiginous culture) are so beautiful---colourful and intricate--i could buy them all!!!

One old lady---who was selling lollies/begging---kind of befriended us. We kept bumping in to her---and yes, we did buy some lollies!!! One morning we were having breakfast and she came in to the cafe---so we invited her to join us. She asked for chicken soup---we had to laugh---she ate the soup---but wrapped up the chicken and put it in her basket for later on!!!

I must say---one of the sad sights over here is all the begging---mainly indigenous people of course---but not only adults---actually even more so the kids. Their parents send them out to beg---in various manners---straight out asking for money, selling lollies, cleaning shoes, some even do a few acrobatic jumps in front of cars stopped at traffic lights and then walk up and down asking for money for their entertainment!!! All forms of begging.
I must tell one story that did make us laugh. We were on a bus and a young girl was begging---when a phone rang and she pulled out her mobile phone and answered it. Hmmm---if you are going to beg--at least turn off the mobile!!!

Anyway--we enjoyed Cajamarca for a few days---visiting some of the interesting archaeological sites in the surrounding countryside. One was some tombs built in to a rock face; and another took us higher in to the surrounding mountains to a "forest of stones" where the ingenious engineering feats of the Incas still remains---a water canal to supply the town below. The countryside here was really beautiful as we were literally walking through a forest of stone formations.

Plus we enjoyed the yummy thermal baths there---that date back to Inca times---and of course taking lots of photos of the colouful local people and markets---we do love a market here---they are an insight in to the local life.

Just so you can enjoy all our travels with us--i will share my bus story with you!! Leaving Cajamarca many of the buses were full as it was mothers day weekend---but we found one company that looked ok. Well---looked ok in the photo!!! When the bus arrived (finally!!)--i got on while Jesus made sure that our bags also got on---yes, you need to double check here!! Well---the bus stank and the seats were as old as the Incas---and we had to spend the night there. I nearly got straight off!! An hour or so in to the journey the man in front had his window open letting in the cold night air---i nearly asked him to close it, when i heard him talking to someone on his phone---we laughed when we heard him say "i am in a bus that stinks like goats!!!" I never get travel sick---but this bus made me sick---literally!!! YUK!!

Ahh---aren´t you jealous of our travels!!!

Anyway---hope you continue to enjoy our travel tales---wait for the next one!!!

Until then
Lots of love

Llamas Bailando xxoo

PS: I leave you with Jesus---just being Jesus!!!! And---some more market photos taken in Ambato---enjoy.